Bronco Babes….Medieval Monasteries, Fields and Forests and … Rivers.
Day 5: We start our full day ride at 10am on forest trails and along olive orchards to the wine farm of Pacina, and old convent now converted to an organic farm by the Tiezzi family, that produce a superb Chianti but in small quantity. There has been a convent in Pacina since before the end of the first millennium, with a strong identity related to a reputation for excellence. It has a long history of exceptional produce from vineyards, olive groves and natural woodlands, stretching across the Chianti region as far as Crete Senesi. Pacina is a small settlement, home to a number of families. The estate continues to specialize in fully organic production to utilize the best of our natural resources as well as providing the highest quality. DOGC approved wines; renowned extra virgin olive oil and the cultivation of cereals, fruit and vegetables from our orchards and market gardens are included in the list of products.
This day veered slightly from the brochures description. We had a long day of riding through lush fields and forests and up a steep rocky mountainside. Sadio again provides lunch among the trees of an olive grove. Bathroom breaks in the high grass and rocks bring thoughts of snakes to the fore. An adder to the ass would not make for good day. Fortunately they stayed out of site. The horses got a much-deserved rest while we lazily munched on cold pasta salad, tomatoes, melons, salami, cheese and biscotti. We saddle up again for the long trek home. Donatella is riding a newer horse that does not have a lot of confidence yet. Therefore, Dacot and I spend a lot of time leading the pack. As we near home we wind our way through the forest to a river. Donatella tells us to pray to our ghosts that no lorries pass overhead and we try to cross the river. She sends Dacot and me first with a final warning to ride a straight line under the overpass as the passage has steep drop offs to the right and left. As we start off it seem that the passage will be easy but cars and trucks are passing overhead and the sound echoes eerily. I try to keep Dacot moving forward but he spins suddenly and steps right off the deep end where he tries to leap out of the deep but can’t find his footing. After a couple tries I jump off over his rear only to find myself flailing in chin deep water. Dacot continues to scramble and eventually jumps out. I am terrified of deep water, snakes and being stepped on by a horse, in that order. Adrenalin is a good thing and I am able to drag myself quickly out of the water and re-catch Dacot on firm ground. Now, soaking wet I must walk him across the river before all of the other horses start to freak out. Once past the river there are waist high grasses and I keep hearing Donatella’s voice yelling, “keep going, keep going”. Thoughts of snakes return. Once everyone is safely across I remount and turn to my friends and say, “ That girls is why you keep your horse between your seat and hands at all times!” I am told that it is my responsibility to buy everyone a round. Indignant, I say that I think I am the one owed a drink and Donatella quickly tells me it is a privilege for the one who falls off to buy the rounds. Then I realize that the privilege is that you are still alive to be able to buy the drinks. Can’t wait for the shower!
Our Donatellaism if the day is, “ Don’t scream, you’ll scare the horses!”
Dinner – Pasta with creamy alfredo type sauce with asparagus. Turkey stuffed with proscuitto, basil and white cheese with aus jux. Dessert is fresh strawberries (fragolia) with lemon and sugar.
Day 6: Today we ride all day through the “Crete Senese”. This is a completely different area – famous for their sheep and sheep cheese. We ride up an ancient Etruscan road leading us to an amazing view over the valley, the Chianti hills and Siena on sunny days. Later on we pass through the village of Rapale, which is probably the last example of an untouched and “not renovated” ancient village.
Another long day in the saddle awaits. Despite some leg scrapes from the river debacle Dacot is fit and I again get to ride him. Today Sadio is our guide and is riding Paulette. Not a bad view and the countryside isn’t bad either. We ride through many vineyards, fields and forests. Another long climb up a rocky mountainside and as we start down the other side we must dismount and lead the horses. The descent is narrow, rugged and rocky with tree limbs so low we must fold ourselves in half as we lead each horse. What kind of day would it be if half of us didn’t need to make a pee break on this treacherous trail? I ask Sadio of this area is where they bring the Italian army for survival training. Finally near the bottom we are able to remount and continue our journey to the 9th century organic vineyard and olive oil farm. Here we meet Vera, our guide for the vineyard who speaks excellent English and who is enthusiastic about the farm and eager to describe their practices. The owners of the farm live in the original monastery from the 9th century that houses a long wine cellar and catacomb underneath. At one time there was a tunnel that extended underground to the church to avoid the warring factions between the government and the pope making it dangerous to pray openly. In the deepest part of the cellar are catacombs and an Etruscan tomb. Pacina is the name of the town, which was the Etruscan God of Wine (similar to the Greek God Bacchus). Wine has been produce here for more than 2000 years! The road towards our picnic destination is blocked so we picnic on the grounds of the winery. Just as we are gathering up our mess to leave, Paulette kicks Lucilla (Shannon’s horse) and she becomes dead lame. Sadio must drive home and return with the trailer to take her home. Fortunately she will be OK and is just a little bit of a drama queen. Bobbie decides to return home with the horse and Shannon takes over the reins of Cleo. Finally, we tack up and head for home. The rocky trails, forests and fields continue. As we enter one field we see a herd of pigs running down a hill toward us. There is a fence between us but many of the horses become frightened by the pigs and start to freak out. Since they are nervous about the pigs and also know they are going home our final canters are choppy and hard to control and we all must “keep a distance” as the horses are kicking at each other. Everyone is tired, sore and ready to get back.
Once showered, we convene for wine and cheese on the veranda of the clubhouse and then on to dinner.
Dinner: Pasta with wild fennel, which is used to make a pesto-like sauce. Fried thinly sliced beef, fried sage (yum), fried zucchini, fried acacia flowers. Dinner is served with Pacina Chianti, which is very strong and much better with food. After dinner we retire sunburned and sore but content after a challenging day of riding.
There is only one more day here in Tuscany. Ready to get home but definitely sad to be leaving.
Day 7: A morning ride from the center takes us to the monastery of Borgo. We ride through forests, along olive orchards and passing by vines growing along the paths. Lunch is back at the riding center. In the afternoon we take you to the spa of Rapolano terme with 2 nice swimming pools. Here you the option to have a massage or a visit to the village of Castelnuovo Berardenga and possibly another wine tasting at the Felsina wine farm.
This morning is only a two-hour ride with both Sadio and Donatella. A few nice trots and canters and as we turn for home the horses seem eager for a rest. We have lunch on the terrace and then prepare to a shopping/sightseeing trip to Cortona.
Lunch: Fettuccini with cherry tomatoes, olive oil and thyme. Lettuce, tomatoes, anchovies, cheese, bread and wine round out our meal.
Sadio allows us to us to take his Subaru to Cortona – who does that? We decide to turn on their CD player to see what they listen to and Led Zeppelin Stairway to Heaven blasted out. Cortona is a steep and narrow town perched on top of a large hill. More churches, shops and gelato as well as several weddings taking place throughout the town.
We head back to the riding center for our final dinner together and with our fabulous hosts.
Dinner: Sage ravioli, wood grilled sausages and pork ribs and potatoes. We end our night with pictures with Donatella and Sadio and finally arrividericci Italia.
Kathleen, Andrea and I leave almost in the middle of the night to catch our plane to Paris. What a wild ride that was with us narrowly making that flight.
Back to the USA with fond memories of our new Italian friends.
