Bronco Babes..Medieval Monasteries, Fields and Forests and.....Rivers!

Bronco Babes….Medieval Monasteries,  Fields and Forests and … Rivers.

Day 5: We start our full day ride at 10am on forest trails and along olive orchards to the wine farm of Pacina, and old convent now converted to an organic farm by the Tiezzi family, that produce a superb Chianti but in small quantity.  There has been a convent in Pacina since before the end of the first millennium, with a strong identity related to a reputation for excellence.  It has a long history of exceptional produce from vineyards, olive groves and natural woodlands, stretching across the Chianti region as far as Crete Senesi.  Pacina is a small settlement, home to a number of families.  The estate continues to specialize in fully organic production to utilize the best of our natural resources as well as providing the highest quality.  DOGC approved wines; renowned extra virgin olive oil and the cultivation of cereals, fruit and vegetables from our orchards and market gardens are included in the list of products.

This day veered slightly from the brochures description.  We had a long day of riding through lush fields and forests and up a steep rocky mountainside.  Sadio again provides lunch among the trees of an olive grove.  Bathroom breaks in the high grass and rocks bring thoughts of snakes to the fore.  An adder to the ass would not make for good day. Fortunately they stayed out of site.  The horses got a much-deserved rest while we lazily munched on cold pasta salad, tomatoes, melons, salami, cheese and biscotti.    We saddle up again for the long trek home.  Donatella is riding a newer horse that does not have a lot of confidence yet. Therefore, Dacot and I spend a lot of time leading the pack.   As we near home we wind our way through the forest to a river.  Donatella tells us to pray to our ghosts that no lorries pass overhead and we try to cross the river.  She sends Dacot and me first with a final warning to ride a straight line under the overpass as the passage has steep drop offs to the right and left.  As we start off it seem that the passage will be easy  but cars and trucks are passing overhead and the sound echoes eerily.  I try to keep Dacot moving forward but he spins suddenly and steps right off the deep end where he tries to leap out of the deep but can’t find his footing. After a couple tries I jump off over his rear only to find myself flailing in chin deep water.  Dacot continues to scramble and eventually jumps out.   I am terrified of deep water, snakes and being stepped on by a horse, in that order.  Adrenalin is a good thing and I am able to drag myself quickly out of the water and re-catch Dacot on firm ground.  Now, soaking wet I must walk him across the river before all of the other horses start to freak out. Once past the river there are waist high grasses and I keep hearing Donatella’s voice yelling, “keep going, keep going”.   Thoughts of snakes return.    Once everyone is safely across I remount and turn to my friends and say, “ That girls is why you keep your horse between your seat and hands at all times!”  I am told that it is my responsibility to buy everyone a round.  Indignant, I say that I think I am the one owed a drink and Donatella quickly tells me it is a privilege for the one who falls off to buy the rounds. Then I realize that the privilege is that you are still alive to be able to buy the drinks.  Can’t wait for the shower!

Our Donatellaism if the day is, “ Don’t scream, you’ll scare the horses!”

Dinner – Pasta with creamy alfredo type sauce with asparagus.  Turkey stuffed with proscuitto, basil and white cheese with aus jux.  Dessert is fresh strawberries (fragolia) with lemon and sugar.

Day 6:  Today we ride all day through the “Crete Senese”.  This is a completely different area – famous for their sheep and sheep cheese.  We ride up an ancient Etruscan road leading us to an amazing view over the valley, the Chianti hills and Siena on sunny days.  Later on we pass through the village of Rapale, which is probably the last example of an untouched and “not renovated” ancient village. 

Another long day in the saddle awaits.  Despite some leg scrapes from the river debacle Dacot is fit and I again get to ride him.   Today Sadio is our guide and is riding Paulette.  Not a bad view and the countryside isn’t bad either.  We ride through many vineyards, fields and forests.  Another long climb up a rocky mountainside and as we start down the other side we must dismount and lead the horses.  The descent is narrow, rugged and rocky with tree limbs so low we must fold ourselves in half as we lead each horse.  What kind of day would it be if half of us didn’t need to make a pee break on this treacherous trail?  I ask Sadio of this area is where they bring the Italian army for survival training.  Finally near the bottom we are able to remount and continue our journey to the 9^th century organic vineyard and olive oil farm.  Here we meet Vera, our guide for the vineyard who speaks excellent English and who is enthusiastic about the farm and eager to describe their practices.  The owners of the farm live in the original monastery from the 9^th century that houses a long wine cellar and catacomb underneath.  At one time there was a tunnel that extended underground to the church to avoid the warring factions between the government and the pope making it dangerous to pray openly.  In the deepest part of the cellar are catacombs and an Etruscan tomb.  Pacina is the name of the town, which was the Etruscan God of Wine (similar to the Greek God Bacchus).   Wine has been produce here for more than 2000 years!  The road towards our picnic destination is blocked so we picnic on the grounds of the winery.  Just as we are gathering up our mess to leave, Paulette kicks Lucilla (Shannon’s horse) and she becomes dead lame. Sadio must drive home and return with the trailer to take her home.  Fortunately she will be OK and is just a little bit of a drama queen.  Bobbie decides to return home with the horse and Shannon takes over the reins of Cleo. Finally, we tack up and head for home.  The rocky trails, forests and fields continue.  As we enter one field we see a herd of pigs running down a hill toward us.  There is a fence between us but many of the horses become frightened by the pigs and start to freak out.  Since they are nervous about the pigs and also know they are going home our final canters are choppy and hard to control and we all must “keep a distance” as the horses are kicking at each other.  Everyone is tired, sore and ready to get back. 

Once showered, we convene for wine and cheese on the veranda of the clubhouse and then on to dinner. 

Dinner:  Pasta with wild fennel, which is used to make a pesto-like sauce.  Fried thinly sliced beef, fried sage (yum), fried zucchini, fried acacia flowers.   Dinner is served with Pacina Chianti, which is very strong and much better with food.   After dinner we retire sunburned and sore but content after a challenging day of riding.

There is only one more day here in Tuscany.  Ready to get home but definitely sad to be leaving.

Day 7:  A morning ride from the center takes us to the monastery of Borgo.  We ride through forests, along olive orchards and passing by vines growing along the paths.  Lunch is back at the riding center.  In the afternoon we take you to the spa of Rapolano terme with 2 nice swimming pools.  Here you the option to have a massage or a visit to the village  of Castelnuovo Berardenga and possibly another wine tasting at the Felsina wine farm.

This morning is only a two-hour ride with both Sadio and Donatella.  A few nice trots and canters and as we turn for home the horses seem eager for a rest.  We have lunch on the terrace and then prepare to a shopping/sightseeing trip to Cortona.

Lunch:  Fettuccini with cherry tomatoes, olive oil and thyme.  Lettuce, tomatoes, anchovies, cheese, bread and wine round out our meal.

Sadio allows us to us to take his Subaru to Cortona – who does that?  We decide to turn on their CD player to see what they listen to and Led Zeppelin Stairway to Heaven blasted out.  Cortona is a steep and narrow town perched on top of a large hill.  More churches, shops and gelato as well as several weddings taking place throughout the town.

We head back to the riding center for our final dinner together and with our fabulous hosts.

Dinner:  Sage ravioli, wood grilled sausages and pork ribs and potatoes.  We end our night with pictures with Donatella and Sadio and finally arrividericci Italia.

Kathleen, Andrea and I leave almost in the middle of the night to catch our plane to Paris.  What a wild ride that was with us narrowly making that flight.  

Back to the USA with fond memories of our new Italian friends.

Ride on Bronco Babes.            

Bronco Babes in Chianti...Adventures Among the Ruins

The Chianti country adventures continue with our first full day ride.

DAY 3:  Today is a full day ride (5-6 hours) with a picnic lunch along the way.  We ride through the Chianti vineyards of Arceno, where we will have a wine tasting in a superb location with the view of the vines, olives and the amazing cypress allee of Villa Arceno.  Tenuta di Arceno's history stretches back to the time of the Etruscans who dominated central Italy prior to the formation of the Roman Empire.  The estate lies in the hills of the Chianti region- home to Italy's most renowned wines.  Among them are the Super Tuscans, referrred to as such due to their superior quality and position outside of official premium wine designations.  The Tenuta di Arceno estate produces a variety of Super Tuscans including Arcanum I and Arcanum II.  We stop for a visit and maybe an aperitif in the medieval village of San Gusme (11th century) and then we continue to Campi ( and Etruscan settlement, but unfortunately at the moment is is not possible to visit the historical part), the view from the picnic place is 360 degrees.

Today we begin early and ride a different horse and I have Ambrogio, a pretty chestnut Halflinger mix. We ride about an hour until we reach the cypress allee which is as stunning as described on the website.  The allee proceeds down a long dusty road before you approach the entrance to the winery.  All is well until we reach the bottom and see an encampment of RVs and tents and mechanics milling around a bunch of Peugeot test cars - something about testing wheel and steering adjustments.  It is not clear whether these guys saw us coming or thought it would be fun to see what happens, but just as we approach they start a loud roar and revving of engines.  Surprisingly none of the horses are too fazed by the ruckus. Ambrogio is a little freaked out but quickly calms and walks on past the offenders. Stupid Peugeot.

The winery is spectacular and modern and once the horses are tied to trees the tasting begins. We taste from the younger table wine Chianti to the more sophisticated older wines.  The subtle differences and awesomeness of these wines is lost on me and my favorite of the group is the peasant stock table wine.  I do remember thought that all true Chianti wines will have a pink label and there's something significant about the black rooster. 

Once finished we remount and head for San Gusme which is charming walled 11th century village with weathered stone and brick buildings and roads, shuttered windows and brilliant flowers spilling from window boxes. Every turn seems to have a stone archway framing the rolling vista beyond.

After exploring the village we proceed up a narrow, rocky path (road?) passing red tiled roofed homes with gardens and animals perched precariously along the hillside.  Most of these homes have a car parked nearby so apparently it is a road we are on and it is navigated by cars....amazing.  At the summit of the hill we enter a clearing with an old church and watch tower.  This is to be our picnic spot and it indeed has panoramic 360 degree views.  Unfortunately there are no Etruscan ruins for Andrea to see.  We have several more days to continue the search for the elusive Etruscans.  Upon arrival we meet Sadio's friend Lorenzo who helps set up our picnic lunch.  Lorenzo is a charmer and serenades us with a song.  For lunch we have a spread of cold pasta salad, salami three differently aged local pecorino cheeses, fresh melon, biscotti and of course... wine.  One might think that drinking a riding don't mix, but it is definitely a theme in all of the equestrian vacations we've taken.  Takes you mind off the fact that you are on a strange horse, thousands of miles from home and anything could happen.

After lunch Donatella offers me the chance to ride Paulette, the large (17.1 hand) sport-type horse she is riding. Though a little scared I jump at the chance.  Donatella tells me she is good but very strong and requires a good rider. She had double reins which I've never used, this should be interesting.  She is smooth with an enormous stride.  The impulsion on our first trot nearly throws me off.  We get the gist of soft hands and a lot of seat and I am able to keep her behind Donatella and Ambrogio at the walk and trot.  We prepare to canter back up the cypress allee and I tell Donatella there is no way I can keep her behind another horse.  She tells me to go first and we are off.  All I hear in the distance is a faint "slow down".  With much effort I get her back.  Cantering her would take more practice and I'm a little too spooked to do that now with all the other horses around.  We will be content with walking and trotting home.  Whew... a very exhilarating day!

Dinner is a special treat as it is Bobbie's birthday and it is time to cap off her Queen for a Day status.  Her husband arranges for champagne and we begin with champagne, strawberries, prosciutto and cheese.  Dinner is pasta with artichoke, eggplant Parmesan, lettuce with tomatoes, cannelloni beans and wine. For dessert Sadio made Bobbie a special chocolate brownie like cake with candles and we all sing Happy Birthday.
After dinner there's a dance party and we watch Bobbie, Andrea and Kathleen shake their collective groove things to Love Shack. 

Pasta with Artichoke
Pasta (fettuccine or tagliatelle), cooked al-dente
Cleaned and chopped fresh artichokes (soak in lemon water so the do not turn brown)
Saute the artichokes in olive oil with garlic and hot pepper flakes. 
Pour the sauce over the pasta and serve with Parmesan cheese.

Donatellaism of the day:  "Men are like horses...you must ride them between your legs and hands and sometimes with the spur."


DAY 4:    In the morning we ride to the medieval village of Montebenichi and will be back for lunch at the riding center.  In the afternoon we will visit the Castle of Brolio, built in the 11th century and still the residence of the Ricasoli family.  Wine tasting.  The first stones of Brolio Castle date back to the middle ages.  The castle passed into the hands of the Ricasoli family thanks to an exchange of lands in 1141 and the name Ricasoli has been linked to wine since then.  The cellars of Barone Ricasoli are at the foot of Brolio Castle, separated from the main body of the winery and used exclusively for vinification purposes.  Countless grape varieties have been studied and grown in Brolio for centuries.

I am back on Dacot today and we begin by passing a 16th century mill, along the river and past a natural sulphur spring with a plant to capture the natural carbonation of the spring. Interesting but smelly.  In the distance we hear more roar and revving of the Peugeot as they are out doing road testing.  We worry about them racing past us on the narrow winding roads.  Fortunately this does not happen.  We continue through fields and forests, past some abandoned old buildings still beautiful in their decay to another small picturesque village.  Back to the riding center for lunch and then the others head out in the Fiat to find Etruscan ruins.  Instead they climb a mountain road to another town to explore and of course find gelati.  Before dinner I think some of them enjoy the nearby sulphur spa. I stay back for a much needed nap.

Lunch was served on the terrace and consisted of:
Pasta Fagioli (rigatoni, tomato sauce and cannelloni beans with thyme and oregano)
Salami
Lettuce/tomato
Three pecorino cheeses
Wine

Dinner that night is another feast:

Three kinds of fritatta (one with leftover pasta and artichoke, one with potatoes, one with leeks)
Lettuce/tomato
Risotto made with Chianti wine (yum)
Wine

Three more days of riding await.  Starting to miss home and family but this routine is addictive.



Bronco Babes Hit Chianti Country

Bronco Babes Hit Chianti Country

Accommodation

The farmstead of S. Margherita, built at the end of the nineteenth century and home of a riding center and farm.  It is situated in the Senese Chianti at the center of the Siena, Florence, Arezzo triangle.

The buildings have been recently renovated but without altering their original form.  Guests have at their disposition a large living room with an open fireplace, a kitchen, 4 bedrooms with private bathrooms and a self-contained apartment for two in a separate converted barn, restructured on two floors.  A clubhouse, a changing room and a laundry room complete the facilities. 

Our desire was to create a harmonious setting in 6000 square feet, for a limited number of guests who are looking to stay in a friendly, but at the same time discreet environment.  We are also a certified organic farm and we try to respect the environment in the way we run our farm holiday accommodation.  Castelnuovo Berendenga town council organizes cultural and social activities in the area and there are two well-known spa swimming pools ten minutes away.

Day 1:  Arrival at the riding center in the afternoon.  Around 7pm we will get together and offer you a welcome drink before we join you for dinner around 8:30.  Dinners are of a high standard, typical Tuscan cuisine served with table wine. 

Half of us arrive by train and are immediately warmly greeted by sadio.  We are whisked off to the Subaru to be taken to the farm.  The description for Hidden Trails sound lovely, but we've been on these trips before so I know we are collectively holding our breath and remaining cautiously optimistic.  What a delight to drive through the iron gate to the gorgeous stone farmhouse and stables.  Everything is clean and neat and screams that people who love their home live here.  Even thouh our travel day is gloomy the flowers and acacia trees are blooming and the air smells clean and fresh.  We know immediately that we have landed in a special place. 

 

After several more hours, Andrea and kathleen arrive with tales of their roadside adventures.  Getting lost, asking for directions several times that also included invitations for several glasses of wine and participation in a first communion celebration.  Andrea relays her embarrassment at having driven past the gate and when Sadio offers assistance to the entrance she blurts, " You look just like the David, has anyone ever told you that?!"  Once all the bags Sadio seem nervous ther might be a fight over the rooms. (Do we look like brawlers?)  We settle it with a lottery and low and behold I get the beautiful canopied room to myself ( the nest bed - so named because the mattress wraps around you like you are in a nest).  However, those of you that know my princess complex know I am thrilled with the canopy.  Andrea's feet hang over the bottom of her bed and Shannon has a family of owls living in the rafters with noisy hungry young.  Such is the life of the traveler.

As we settle in Donatella is teaching a riding lesson and Shannon and I can look out of our windows onto the vine covered riding arena.  After the lesson Donatella sits with us over a glass of wine and we hear about the week's itinerary.  This is always a tense time s we wait to hear what the guide has to say about the horses and the ride.  They in turn are sizing us up in terms of what they think our real riding ability is compared to what we described on the reservation.   They are probably trying to gauge how high maintenance we all might be.  After this we sit down for our first farmstyle meal.

Dinner: 

Vegetable lasagne with a bechemel sauce

Roast pork

Roasted potatoes with olive oil and rosemary

Saute` greens

Chianti table wine

Sadio will hear the first of our constant entreaties to tell us how everything is made.  Just like with Grandma's cooking, there are no recipes.  We want to know who prepared the delicious spread and first hear about Sadio and Roberta's cooking prowess.  It will keep us well sated for the week.  Of course who can forget when Bobbie spoke up and said we were not big eaters.  Andrea almost choked on her own spit and quickly countered with," Speak for yourself...I'm a big eater."  Even for the most bir-like eater this was going to be a week of feasting on fresh and fantastic food.  We trundle off to bed after dinner.  It was a long flight, a hectic couple of days in Florence and tomorrow is the first day meeting the horses.

Day 2:   A good breakfast awaits you in the morning.  Then we meed at the stables, assign the horses and start our first ride out around 10AM.  The trail leads us to the Romantic Abbey of Badia d'Ombrone.  We will be back at the center for lunch.  In the afternoon we drive to Siena to explore the medieval town.

We all meet at the stable (some sooner than others - sorry Andrea and kathleen, I just couldn't resist).  I am assigned Dacot and once he is tacked up I see that he has a snaffle with a shank bit, a curb chain and a running martingale.  I timidly, but trying to appear brave, ask Sadio if he is strong when hacking and he says, "Yes, yes can be very strong.  This may be too much but a snaffle is not enough."  I'm told he is very forward but also very responsive.  Soft hands are the rule of the day.  Before our first canter Donatella looks at me and says, "You, be careful!"  We all have a morning of figuring out our horses buttons and they are figuring us out as well.  We have to cross a couple of belly deep rivers that are very swift after a weekend of rain.  We pass beautifully renovated private homes, each time with an eagle eye looking for George Clooney or Leo Dicaprio.  Alas, we never did find them.  Through the woods and large stacked wood walls of cordwood waiting for sale.  The reported highlight for sightseeing this first day is the renovated Abbey and 1000 year old castle.  Very impressive for sure.  However, when we are descending through a field toward the highway Donatella announces and we shout down the line, " Watch out for the ditch on the right and poutons on the left. "  We think the message is misinterpreted as it was passed down the line but sure enough on the highway were two prostitutes.  It didn't seem like a very profitable spot but what do I know.  Somehow Steve Miller pops in to my head and all I can think of is, "Clowns to the left of me, poutons to the right, here I am stuck in the middle with you."  We head back to the farm for lunch and must recross the rushing rivers.  Shannon has the first, but certainly not the last, rodeo experience of the week as her horse leaps over a log in the middle of the river.  Bronco Babe Kozakiewicz keeps her seat and soldiers on.

 We are ready for lunch and are not disappointed.  Pasta carbonnera, salami, fresh cheese, fennel salad and wine.

Fennel salad:

Sliced fennel

Olive oil

Lemon

Salt/pepper

Off to Sienna for the afternoon.  Sienna is the best preserved walled medieval sity in Italy.  Steep steps, narrow and dark streets.  Great little shops and Gelati!  Newly discovered frescos in the crypt of a church tell the story of Christ.  So much ornate architecture it is hard to take it all in.  The sofit of one of the buidings (in the piazza with the suckling shewolf with Remus and Romulos) is lined with heads looking down at the passer-by.  Who are these observers of eternity?  After a few hours of shopping and sightseeing we head back to dinner. 

Dinner:

Gnocchi with a fresh sauce of tomato, thyme, oregano, basil and olive oil.

Braised beef with tomato sauce.

Roasted potatoes with parsley.

Cannoli beans with olive oil.

Tired and sated we head to bed with thoughts of our first full day ride the next day.

Pittsburghers in Firenze (Florence 'n at)

Pittsburghers in Firenze (Florence 'n at)

     A long, jammed flight to Paris.  Uneventful except for the catllecar feel.  Fortunately modern pharmacopoeia allows for sleep most of that leg of the journey.  Disembarking on a remote tarmac and I am separated from my friends and not allowed to get onto the packed tram.  They pull away for a distant terminal and I am left standing on the bottom step of the airplane stairs staring pathetically in disbelief. Eventually we meet and scramble to find our connecting flight. 

     We have a six hour layover, yet and earlier flight is found.  Only two seats. Who should go, who should stay and wait?  Andrea and Kathleen take the earlier flight in hopes of getting the rental car situated and facilitate our meeting up and hitting the ground running.  Sounds like a seamless plan, except their luggage doesn't make it on the earlier flight.  They must wait until everyone on the flight has their luggage and fill out the forms.  Still ahead of schedule they get the car, figure out the GPS (no small feat) and plan to proceed to the hotel.  Only then do they realize that Kathleen's treasured Ariat Rolex jacket was left at the airport.  The car rental is 2 minutes from the airport, yet 20 minutes later they find their way back and retrieve the jacket.   Eventually we all meet up at the Hotel Europa on Via Cavore across from the Riccardi Medici Palazzo. It is a small but quaint hotel with very friendly, English speaking staff. 

     Shannon and I walk into our shared room and open the shuttered window to find a spectacular view of the Duomo!

     Our tired yet hardy band gather and set out with map in hand to explore the immediate area. Since we are centrally located dahntahn 'n at it's easy to walk to the sites we want to see.  It is late afternoon local time and it seems like we've been travelling and connecting forever.  Immediately the shopping opportunities are evident.  Shops and stalls are everywhere.  We find a small restaurant for our first official Italian meal, which is fabulous.  I have vegetarian tagliatelle with carrots and zucchini. Crusty bread, olive oil and wine!  Time for sleep as the next day and are filled with museums and shopping!

Off to the Uffizzi bright and early Saturday morning.  The Uffizzi museum was begun by Giorgio Vasari in 1560 for Cosimo I de'Medici as government "Uffizze" (offices).  The last Medici heiress provided that the Uffizzi was to be a museum and has been open to visitors since the 16th century.  Since 1765 it has been open to the public. It is a vast and overwhelming collection of some the world's greatest works of art and thanks to our resident professor Andrea we were able better understand what we were seeing and its significance. 


                                              

I won't pretend that able to remember everything but in short what I remember is the following:  Gothic religious images for churches were basically created on a "flat" plane.  Pre Renaissance artists started to add layers to the images. Renaissance paintings showed depth and often a landscape horizon. For the first time individuals had enough money to commission paintings of themselves or paintings for their own viewing pleasure.  Mannerism was characterized by exaggerated necks and fingers.  Ancient sculptures lacked muscle detail, were straight up and down and faces lacked expression.  Renaissance sculpture introduced muscle and facial detail and "Contrapasto" positioning. Not much but how'd I do Andrea?  Hope you are not too embarrassed by my lack of knowledge but I did try to listen and learn.  Thank you so much for sharing - it made the museum so much more interesting!!  The views from the upper level of the building were spectacular.  What a place to have worked.   We leave the museum and head of for shopping, shopping, shopping with a couple churches thrown in the middle.  Who will forget Sam the Israeli salesman who sold 2 jackets and 2 purses that day.  What a salesman!  He should teach seminars on salesmanship.  No wonder he wintered in Florida.  Then walking along with maps in hand and obviously speaking "American" we are stopped for directions by two travellers from, where else? Pittsburgh!  In typical Pittsburgh tradition they tell us of a Steeler bar they found in Rome.  Andrea and Shannon take off and climb to the top of the Duomo - earning their pizza, gelati and dinner in Fiosole. 

Saturday evening we have a reservation at a wonderful hilltop restaurant in Fiosole, overlooking Florence (Firenze).   If only there was a picture of six adults piling into a small four person Fiat.  What a site!



Up the steep and narrow hill to the beautiful peak and a terrific meal that awaits us.  The views breathtaking and something that you read about but never think you'll see. We are awed by the views and the millenia of people who have stood there before.  So before continuing to wax poetic you must remember who is writing this account and of course something has to happen to bring it home and make it real.  So the evening must end with a final pee break before heading back down the mountain smashed together in the Fiat like a circus act. There is one unisex bathroom and we vow to watch the door for each other.  Well, I'm last and just as I'm making the final pantyhose adjustments up over the butt, the door opens and I spin around only to look UP to a large bearded man!  Must have been a sight because he beat feet like a scared little girl.  Moon over Fiosole.  Maybe they are still talking about it.  You can take the girl out of Pittsburgh but you can't take the Pittsburgh outta the girl.



 After a good night's sleep we are again up and out early - this time off  to dell'Academia and David!  Everyone has seen pictures of the sculpture but nothing prepares you for the power of it when you turn the bend to enter the gallery and you see him illuminated under the dome at the end of the gallery.   Then to walk along Michelangelo's prisoners that line the aisle up to meet his masterpiece is indescribable. 

After a little more walking around we split up and prepare for our next journey to Monteviarchi and then onto the farmstead of S. Margherita.  Andrea and Kathleen take off with directions and the GPS in the Fiat only to encounter their own adventures including many stops and invitations for a glass of wine and even being invited to join a First Communion celebration. The rest off us take off for the train ....soon to meet a spitting image of David.  An Diamo friends... our fun and adventures are just beginning.

Why Horses are like Heroin

     I don’t do heroin.  I’ve seen “Go Ask Alice”.  I’ve seen MacKenzie Phillips interviews. I do know the uncontrollable pull to do something repeatedly that will no doubt bring your untimely demise.  Financial, physical and emotional ruin wait while you chase a pipe dream of the perfect ride.

      Unholy glimpses of nirvana with each perfect (sort of) half halt, or sailing over a fence you never thought you’d attempt with nary a bauble.    The leg finally stays down and around the beast, torso and chin up with eyes ahead over the fence, I can do it again and again and it will just get better…..we can fly…ya, uh-hum…right.   Until your leg slips, your torso collapses and you land in a heap with a mouthful of sand, barely an atom of oxygen left in your lungs and pain, pain, pain.  A sane person would walk away, counting blessings of escaping permanent bodily injury. The addict can’t walk away.

     Surely there is something to be said for perseverance in the face of adversity. Conquering the mountain.  Standing tall and marching on.  Meeting and defeating the insurmountable obstacle is a high. Why couldn’t it be in something like real estate or business where there’s money to be made? 

     Inevitably, like the addict, I will keep getting back on the horse. Unlike the addict I will try to grow and become stronger with each new obstacle.  Failure will be the next opportunity.  So, for now, I will enjoy the highs of cleanly jumping the solid yellow fence and learn from the fall from the tall striped brown fence.  Uh oh… is it me or did I just get 15 strides of a perfectly round and forward canter?  The spiral continues.

Tiramisu` Toffee Trifle Pie

1 ½ Tbsp instant coffee granules

¾ cup warm water

1 (10.75 oz) frozen pound cake, thawed

1 (8.8oz) package cream cheese or mascarpone, softened

½ cup powdered sugar

½ cup chocolate syrup

1 (12oz) container frozen whipped topping, thawed and divided

2 (1.4oz) English toffee candy bars, chopped

1. Stir together coffee granules and 3/4c. warm water until coffee granules are dissolved. Let cool
2. Meanwhile, cut cake into 14 slices. Cut each slice in half crosswise. Place cake slices in bottom and overlapping up sides of a 9-inch deep-dish pie plate. Drizzle coffee mixture over cake slices.
3. Beat cream cheese, sugar and chocolate syrup at medium speed with an electric mixer until smooth.  Add 2 ½ cups whipped topping and beat until light a fluffy.
4. Spread cheese mixture evenly over cake.  Top pie with remaining whipped topping.  Sprinkle with chopped candy bars.  Cover and chill 8 hours.

8-10 servings

Recipe from:  Southern Living Classic Southern Desserts, Oxmoor House, 2010.

Leadership...

A leader is a dealer in hope............................Napoleon Bonaparte

A leader doesn't send an email.

Three Elements to Bronco Babedom

As the Bronco Babes once again look forward to saddling up for another adventure it comes to mind; what does it take to be a Bronco Babe? Three words my friends can sum it up:  Fierce, Fabulous and Fearless.

To aspire to Bronco Babe status one must be Fierce.  Fierce in the face of adversity.  Challenges may come fast and furious from all angles, but a Bronco Babe forges ahead with a fierceness to overcome and prevail. Nothing can keep her down (for long).

Bronco Babes are Fabulous.  We may be covered in mud and manure.  We may be bruised and bloodied from all manner of tree limbs, thorns, thistles and briar patches.  We may walk with a limp and smell like linament, but we're still hotter than any Barbie around.

Finally, Fearless.  A Bronco Babe must be Fearless.  Not foolishly fearless.  Heights and snakes and creepy crawly things and not wanting to pee in the woods because you might get a bite in the rear or some funky fungus are all warranted.  But fearless enough to face up to their inner insecurities and push forward.  A Bronco Babe may be scared but not paralyzed.  They may see a horse that wants to throw them off, but rides it anyway. They subscribe to the edict that courage must be practiced.  It may take a pint of Guiness at lunch to keep going....but they do what it takes.

As our merry band of Bronco Babes prepares for flight, here's to good friends, good food and wine, a good horse and few harmless misadventures for laughs.  Put on your Bronco Babe Boots and Let's Ride!!

Pappardelle with Sweet and Hot Sausage Ragu
1/4 lb. pancetta, cubed
2 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1/2 lb. sweet Italian sausage, casing removed
1/2 lb. hot Italian sausage, casing removed
1 large red onion, thickly sliced
1 Tbsp chopped garlic
1 cup roughly chopped fresh basil leaves, plus more for garnish
1/2 cup roughly chopped flat leaf parsley
2 (28 oz) cans diced plum tomatoes
1/2 cup red wine
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 lb. fresh pappardelle pasta
Freshly grated Parmesan, for garnish

Put the pancetta and olive oil in a large Dutch oven over medium heat, and cook until pancetta is rendered, about 5 minutes.  Add both sausages, break up the sausage with a wooden spoon and cook for 5-7 minutes or until sausage is cooked through.  Add the red onion, garlic, basil, parsley,tomatoes and wine.  Cook for 30 minutes, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste.

In a large pot of boiling salted water, add pappardelle and cook until al dente (just a couple minutes for fresh pasta.)  Drain well and serve with sauce over top.  Garnish with basil and Parmesan.

Emeril Lagasse, 2006 (via the Food Network)

The Exquisite Equines of Etruria

By Epona

Horse training and breeding developed early on in Etruria. There is evidence of an interchange between the Greeks and Etruscans of horses and their breeding techniques. Because the Greeks colonized parts of the Italian peninsula, no doubt their horses came with them. Discovery of early Celtic horses in northern Italy show they were very small, although this did nothing to decrease the demand for them. Greek horses at first were of the smaller variety, but the lot was improved by the importation of eastern horses by 700 B.C. coinciding with the early equestrian games. The literature of Greek horses is best represented by the writings of Aristotle and Xenophon. Philip of Macedonia imported some twenty thousand Scythian mares, and his son, Alexander the Great, is said to have gained some fifty thousand eastern horses in the Persian spoils. As a result of the cross breeding practices, the larger bodied horses used for cavalry were produced.

During the more than four centuries of the Roman army's existence, it changed from predominantly infantry to one of cavalry led forces. Because the type of enemy they encountered changed on the frontiers (Persians who had all cavalry forces, the mounted Germanic tribes), the Romans came to depend on a counter measure in the shape of increased cavalry. The experts in this field, that is, the best providers of cavalry mounts, were the Etruscans. War horses and war chariots, (said to have been the inspiration for the Celtic war chariot), were not the only expertise of the Etruscans.

That the Etruscans were artists in many fields is evident in their beautiful workmanship of equine bridles and buckles and other ornamentation for their horses. The fine representation of animals appear on bronze horse buckles excavated at Vetulonia (c. 700). There are numerous tomb paintings of the beautiful equines throughout Etruria.

The importance of horses with the Etruscans is further indicated among the excavations at Murlo. A frieze shows a portrayal of a horse race. Livy writes that when the first games at Rome were celebrated in the reign of the Etruscan king Tarquinius Priscus, most of the horses came from Etruria. Indeed, the Etruscans used the area of the stadium of the Circus Maximus for horse racing prior to its construction by the Romans during the second century B.C. In the horse races in Greece, Etruscan horses nearly always were the predominant favorites.

Livy I, 35. in JRS LXVIII (1978), p. 138 Bökönyi, S. in Meklenberg Collection, Part 1, Data on Iron Age Horses of Central and Eastern Europe, American School of Prehistoric Research, Peabody Museum, Harvard University, 1968.

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Last modified on 02/14/2012 20:40:18

El Rocio Ride 2004

Coto de Donana Ride

OK gang - get set for the Donana (that's Donana, not Donana like Banana!) The Bronco Babes make a gallop across Spain.

A ride on sandy trails around the nature reserve of the Goto Donana, the largest and most interesting nature reserve in Europe. Starting in the southwest of Seville you ride along the pilgrim routes towards El Rocio, the international town of horses. The surroundings of Donana National Park offer pine forests and cork oak, dunes, marshland and hunting grounds.

It's true there are odd umbrella looking pines, cork oak, dunes, marshland, endless sand and scrub - all replete with human trash strewn underneath. Don't forget the indigenous dirt bikers that won't slow down for anything.

Day 1 - Arrival in Seville, dinner and overnight in a local hotel.

Arrival at the Seville train station or airport is about as close to Seville as you 'II get. Meet your driver, who doesn 't speak English, then be whisked PAST Seville to some industrial outpost on the edge of town. Bleak hardly begins to describe the atmosphere.  The hotel is clean and comfortable —just don'tplan to look out of the windows or go out the front door. But, resourceful troopers that we are, there's always fun to be had. Grab a couple cervesas, a deck of card, M&Msfor chips and poker in the courtyard fills the afternoon. Keep cheat sheets handy for reference on which hand is a winner.  Oh yeah — is it a Spanish thing for the deck to have no 8s? Finally, remember it's socialist poker — the person with the most M&Ms must share with the rest or us!

Dinner -you 'II learn quickly that dinner in Spain is brutal and not for the faint of intestine. Oceans of squid, mountains of meat and endless flan - all at 10pm.  This is where you will meet your guide, cook and housemates for the week. In our case we got Juan and Anka. OK, you might think that choosing a ride in Spain you 'd get a Spanish guide who could give you the low down on Spanish culture and the area where you are staying.  You 'd be wrong.  We got a German girl who's only doing this job to take a break from her real life in Germany. (Bad break up with a boyfriend? — who knows) She speaks some Spanish and some English, but translation is still ify. Not to criticize because her linguistic skills are far superior to any of ours — it 'sjust not what was expected.  Then there's Juan who is Anka's helper/cook/boyfriend/handyman. He is a Spaniard from Cadiz who speaks no English and will be living with us as well for the week.  When we meet Anka is exhausted. She and Juan haven't had a day off all summer. Her affect is not one of "Hey, glad you 're here. This week is going to be great. ", but "Let's get on with this ". She asks each of us about ourselves and the type of riding we do normally. Most give the same answer — we don't -want any loco horses to ride. Speed is fine, but no bucking or rearing. She looks at us like we 're loco. Obviously she wasn 't in Ireland with us. Hit the sack after dinner — there's nothing else to do.

Day 2 - Transfer to the "Pueblo del Rio" where the horses are waiting near the finca of the famous bull fighter Angel Peralta.

You 're driven to a country crossroad where Juan pulls off the road onto the burm.  We look at each other and are told our horses are here. Here? They 're in the large box truck (lorry) also on the side of the road. They 're unloaded — assigned to us and we begin grooming and tacking up. By the way no mention of Angel Peralta or even a greeting from the German owners of the ranch who delivered the horses.

You follow the tracks of "Hermandad de Sevilla" when she starts her yearly pilgrimage to Rocio. The "Camino al Rocio y a la Paloma Blanca" is world-renowned and the largest pilgrimage on horseback and carriage with participation from people all over the world.

Pilgrimage to and for what you might ask So did we - over and over. Even we Catholics remain baffled. Don't expect Anka to explain - she doesn't get it either.    In the shadows of the wide pine forests you reach Villamanrique, a small village that serves as a stopover and is also the home for our horses for the night. After a late lunch you ride to your home for the next nights in Rocio. "El Rocio" is a small village surrounded by pine forests and wetlands in the "Parque Donana". No paved roads, just wide sandy streets.

Home for the horses is somewhere different each night, but all have similar features - raggedy barbed wire fences, old bed frames for gates and obstacles like old appliances or car parts strewn throughout. The horses seem none the worse for wear, but we 're appalled — soft Americans 1 guess.

Then there 's our home for the week. Rocio is quaint. It 's like riding into a cowboy town.  We still don 't quite get that this is a very Spanish type of resort area.  There is street after street of vacation homes. Kind of like condos in Myrtle Beach. Families buy these houses for their vacation get-away or to rent to tourists. There are very few permanent residents.   When we arrive it is almost desolate as the high tourist season has passed.   We quickly figure out that Flamenco is really big here as every other shop seems to sell the outfits. Not sure what kind of house we thought we 'd have, but this is definitely rustic. Sort-ofa medium grade hunting camp meets bunkhouse.  We 're assigned our cots and begin wondering - Did anyone envision this? Am I a baby for wishing there was a bathroom closer to my cot? By the way, just who is this Virgin of El Rocio who is on every piece ofchatske available? What did she do? Is she "the " virgin? These and other burning questions hold our attention for the week

Day 3 - You ride across wide sandy trails to the "Palacio del Rey". Long canters under the pines before a last stop to re-supply the saddle bags, because the supply vehicle can not follow you today. The first highlight of the ride is you enter the Rocio, passing the large church and through the village to a copa with horses. At sunrise you may wander over to the Marimas to view its rare species of birds.

is the day we rode around the outskirts and through Rocio. On this ride we could view the lovely garbage infested farming patches that surround the town.  Quite depressing.  The most fun of this day was "making a gallop " through town and drinking cervesa at a horse sized outside bar.

Day 4 - Enjoy different types of forests, travel dunes, dry regions and marshland, as well as see a variety of animal species. The native reserve is completely closed an nobody is allowed to enter here, the only area you can visit is "Camino al Rocio". You have the opportunity to see this wonder of nature on an escorted tour with Land Rovers. The park keeper will show you the best places where animals can be observed: Flamingos, lynx, and hundreds of birds.

You have the opportunity is operative phrase -for an extra 20e each.  The best view on this trip is the park keeper — hot Spaniard in his natural habitat. If you go ask for Gonzo (Giafalma).

In the afternoon you saddle your horse for Vuelta al pueblo ( a round through the village) and the surrounding area.

Did that the day before. This afternoon we move the horses closer to the beach.  Wide sandy trails among the umbrella pines. Fortunately there 's not too much garbage along this trail.   We end up at a "ghost town " where the horses spend the night. Here we meet a "capullo " (crazy person?) who lives alone among the abandoned houses. No ghosts, just the ravages ofunemplyment.

In the evening your dinner is at the Atlantic shore with fresh fish specialties. Actually the shore is down the street and dinner is pork chops.

Day 5 - On your way to "Cabezudos" you cross the route of "Rocio chico". The village is well-known because of semi wild horses living in the area.